Trendy places are cool, gourmet temples are classy and have long been "in", insider tips are certainly no longer secret, and this is also the case in Zurich, Switzerland's largest city. For years, Gault-Millau has awarded eight star chefs in Switzerland the coveted 19 points. Only two of them cook in German-speaking Switzerland, the other six are at home in French-speaking Switzerland. A coincidence? In fact, our French-speaking compatriots are the greater epicures. They are also much closer to French cuisine than we German-speaking Swiss, who are more committed to the status symbol than to the lust and joy of life.
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Kunststube in Küsnacht (near Zurich): gourmet temple for over 20 years
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Such thoughts have plagued me for years. Until now, I have never been a guest of either of the two top chefs in German-speaking Switzerland, neither in Horst Petermann's "Kunststube" in Küsnacht (8 kilometres from Zurich) nor with
André Jäger in the "Fischerzunft" in Schaffhausen.
Gourmet temples are just something for gods, status-conscious stars, a well-"well-heeled" clientele. This is what I have told myself - as an excuse - time and again. And yet, in terms of wine, I am often in the league of the "gourmet temples" - even if it is "only" in the company of a bottle from my own cellar.
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Gala dinner - an atmosphere like in a temple
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Somehow"
Food and Wine" has not yet found its way into me, although I do enjoy cooking well and do not at all despise a delicate meal. But I have been like so many other connoisseurs of fine food and good wine. The two just didn't want to mate properly. If I'm cooking at home, I quickly fetch the appropriate, excellent wine from the cellar, but the food (despite hot efforts) lacks the finesse of a true culinary artist. And when I go to a restaurant with 16-and-more-point cuisine, the "right, good wine" quickly becomes too expensive - indeed, usually remains unaffordable.
So I continue to eat and drink atthe "
highest level" from time to time, but usually separately. A clear flaw!
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The chefs introduce themselves: Horst Petermann (second from left)
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My wife did not want to put up with this, so she decided to give me - years ago - a virtual voucher to visit Horst Petermann's "Kunststube". The voucher remained virtual, Horst Petermann had to do without me, for years. But now the time had come: thanks to the AXA Group (insurance companies). He presented his Bordeaux wines at a gala dinner at Petermann's: killing two birds with one stone. That was quite an experience!
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The perfect arrangement belongs to a perfect dinner
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After the
champagne in the garden: Barnaut,
Grand cru 100%
Pinot Noir - and the entree: foie gras with black truffles and artichokes in
Sauternes jelly accompanied by "S" de
Suduiraut) we were served: pigeon breast on fresh morels - accompanied by "Petit Village" 1998. 19 points with
Gabriel, around 90 points with
Parker and WineSpactator. But this was only the red wine prelude. The roasted sea bass on leek vegetables with red wine was accompanied by the Pichon
Baron 1996 - a 91-point wine according to Parker.
But it got even better: the saddle of lamb from Sisteron with tarragon jus went excellently with the Pichon Baron 1990. Now we are already deep into the 90s points. As an "encore", Pichon Baron 1989 was poured from a double magnum, which - at least for me - is very close to 100 points.
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Christian Seely% General Director of AXA Millésimes presents his wines
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We should also mention the
dessert of small almond cakes accompanied by exotic fruits of a "crème brûlée" and a
Suduiraut 1989, about which Bettane wrote: "Ce vin s'avère extraordinaire,
mais nos petits enfants le trouveront encore meilleur" (this wine is already proving to be extraordinary, but our grandchildren will find it far better).
Whoever is frustrated after this description, whoeverhas the "
juice" running in their mouth, whoever has any sensory
absorption blocked, will just have to wait a few years until the princely
baron meets the
bourgeois Petermann, and then"
be there" at the right moment.
Yours sincerely/YourPeter
(Züllig)
