The third part of the Eisacktal report deals with the wineries in and around Klausen and in the south of the valley. Due to the climatic conditions, the wines here are more heterogeneous. However, the quality is on the same level as in the northern Eisack Valley and each winery is worth a visit.
In Klausen, as well as in the nearer and wider surroundings, there are wineries that have always been here as well as some newcomers. They all produce very individual, distinctive wines.
The Eisacktaler Kellerei was founded in the early 1960s. At that time, the main aim was to provide the many small winegrowers with a better and more secure income than was possible by selling the grapes on the free market. This worked well, even though the quality of the wines at that time could not be compared to today's standards. With the Eisack Valley boom in the 1990s, the quality of the wines from the Eisack Valley winery also changed enormously. At the beginning of the millennium, the rather industrial architectural appearance of the winery was adapted to the wine qualities and a modern, aesthetically successful new building was constructed. The winery received its final touch in 2010, and this time, too, the external change was accompanied by a change or expansion of the product range. Until now, there were two quality lines - basic wines and the "Aristos" selection. The former delivers varietal wines from all the varieties grown in the Valle Isarco. The Aristos wines are the quality flagship of the winery and are produced from the best sites. Here, work has been done very differently from the very beginning. The winegrowers are not paid according to quantity or sugar content, but receive a fixed amount. In return, they have to commit to working exactly according to the winery's specifications.
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| Cellar master Thomas Dorfmann in front of his most valuable vineyard (Source: Eisacktaler Kellerei) |
Since 2010, there has now been a new line - albeit only in very limited numbers or homeopathic quantities. The grapes for this come from one of the most impressive sites in the Valle Isarco, the vineyards of the Säben monastery, which is also called the "Acropolis of South Tyrol". The line is also named after this monastery: Sabiona. There are only two grape varieties that are vinified for this line: Kerner and Sylvaner. Cellarmaster Thomas Dorfmann has always been struck by the special quality of the Sabiona grapes. "And if you have such qualities, you should also use them, especially if not only the wines are impressive, but also the vineyard. Both in terms of landscape aesthetics and history." The Säben wines are truly impressive: powerful growths of great intensity and expressiveness, flavour density and variety. That is why they need time and are always released for sale only two years after the harvest. But for Thomas Dorfmann, that is actually still too early. For him, they are still too young then, and he gives them "10 to 15 years in which they will certainly improve". In the case of the Sylvaner, he is certainly right. The 2008 Kerner, on the other hand, has already tasted excellent to me, at least now, even if it is not restrained in alcohol with 15.5 percent by volume. But the Sabiona wines are proof that the fear of high gradation is unfounded in wines that are coherent in themselves.
The farm-gate prices of the individual lines:
Basic wines: 5.90 to 8.80 euros
Aristos: 9.30 to 10.50 euros
Sabiona wines: 18 euros
Sales and tasting facilities:
Monday to Friday: 9.00 - 13.00 and 14.00 - 18.00
Saturday: 9.00 - 13.00
from July to October
Monday to Friday: 9.00 - 13.00 and 14.00 - 18.30
Saturday: 9.00 - 13.00
Leitach 50, 39043 Klausen
Tel. +39 0472 847 553
Fax +39 0472 847 521
info@eisacktalerkellerei.it
www.eisacktalerkellerei.it
The wines of the Eisacktaler Kellerei in the Wine-Plus Guide
The Röckhof is a living museum - with emphasis on living. Konrad Augschöll is one of those winegrowers who live tradition in the best sense of the word. He has created
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| Konrad and Frieda Augschöll (Source: Augschöll) |
When it comes to his wines, Konrad Augschöll is also a man who is close to tradition and at the same time modern. He is one of the last to cultivate the old Eisack Valley grape variety Furner Hutler, from which he presses a fine, drinkable wine that is modern in the best sense of the word. Unfortunately, it is only available as an open wine on site. And Konrad Augschöll cultivates the practice of cuvée wines, which used to be common in the Eisack Valley. In addition to single-varietal Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Zweigelt, he offers a white wine and red wine cuvée in his top line "Caruess". Above all, the red Caruess - like all the other reds of the Röckhof - has it all: a racy, full-bodied and intense drop with a striking, but not obtrusive acidity. This is exactly how a mountain red wine should be.
Except in the immediate vicinity (up in the village), you hardly have a chance to get the wines of the Röckhof. The best thing to do is to rent a room at the farm and enjoy what is on offer here: authentic wine and all the other home-grown products (bacon from the farm's own pigs, schnapps), the history and the warm, charming atmosphere with a great view of the valley.
The prices of the wines range from 7 to 12 euros.
Wine tasting available by appointment.
St. Valentin 22, 39040 Villanders
Tel./Fax: +39 0472 847130
The Haderburg winery of Christine and Luis Ochsenreiter is a traditional South Tyrolean business. Not, however, a traditional Eisack Valley winery. The vineyards near Klausen were only acquired in 2002, the winery is located in the Unterland near Salurn. The Ochsenreiters became famous with their sparkling wines - Haderburg Brut, Haderburg Pas Dosé and, in recent years, especially with their Riserva Hausmannhof, matured for ten years (!), an exceptional sparkling wine that rightly caused a sensation in Italy and which - just like all the other "Haderburg Spumante" - sells well. "If we only had sparkling wine on offer, we would always be sold out six months after the harvest," says Christine Ochsenreiter. Fortunately, the Ochsenreiters do not think in business terms, but above all in oenological and ecological categories. They therefore produce not only sparkling wine, but exciting, high-quality, individual wines in the best sense of the word; for some years now in a biodynamic way.
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| Luis and Christine Ochsenreiter (Source: Brunner) |
In their Eisacktal vineyards they cultivate Riesling, Sylvaner, Kerner and Gewürztraminer as well as some Pinot Grigio, Müller-Thurgau and Petit Manseng. The first four are vinified as single-varietal wines, and there is also a cuvée from all the varieties grown. These are all "difficult" wines in the best sense of the word, because they are not superficial. They do not reveal themselves with the first impression, but require an in-depth study. However, this engagement is an extremely pleasurable affair. They are wines that arouse curiosity because they always show new facets. Often they are only really good on the second or third day. And somehow they are uncomplicated in their very own way, because they invite you to drink them, because you feel that there is something there - something fascinating, "simply" good that is difficult to describe in words. They are good every year, but they are "naturally" different every year - in the best sense of the word. The Ochsenreiter wines combine ecology with individuality, excitement and pleasure.
All wines can only be tasted during a visit to the cellar buildings in Salurn. On request and by appointment, you can of course also visit the Eisacktal vineyards and find out in detail about the organic or biodynamic aspects of the Ochsenreiters' viticulture.
The prices of the Eisacktaler wines range from 12 to 16 euros.
Buchholz 30, 39040 Salurn
Tel. +39 0471 889097
Fax +39 0471 883892
info@haderburg.it
www.haderburg.it
The Haderburg wines in the Wein-Plus guide
The Loacker family winery is located in Sankt Justina at the foot of the Ritten near Bolzano. Here on the Schwarhof, classic South Tyrolean wines from autochthonous and international varieties have been cultivated since 1979.
Rainer Loacker is the organic pioneer in South Tyrol. From the beginning, he has cultivated his vineyards according to organic or biodynamic methods. When he started growing grapes in 1979, this caused some astonishment among the public. At that time, biological methods in the vineyard were eyed rather suspiciously. But Rainer Loacker is one of those people who care little about what others think and say. Instead, he does what he considers to be right and what is important to him. And success proves this concept of life right. In the beginning, the winery was still a weekend job; Loacker created his financial mainstay with the production and distribution of homeopathic medicines. In addition to South Tyrol, the Loackers now also own two wineries in Tuscany (Corte Pavone in Montalcino and Valdifalco in Maremma).
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| Hayo% Rainer and Franz Josef Loacker (Source: Loacker) |
The Valle Isarco vineyards, on the other hand, were bought in the early 1990s, before the general boom in wine in the Valle Isarco. "The goal was and is above all to produce elegant, fine and at the same time expressive white wines," says Franz-Josef Loacker, who is responsible for sales. The vineyards are located in the southern Eisack Valley in Kollmann near Barbian. Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Grigio are grown. They all produce quite full-bodied wines, spontaneously fermented with their own yeasts. "This is a crucial aspect for me when you talk about terroir wines". Says Hayo Loacker, managing director and also the oenologist in charge. "Only when everything really comes from the vineyard and from the respective vintage does this designation make sense."
"This way of working is only possible in organic cultivation," Hayo Loacker continues. "Because only in this way can the yeasts form, which have gone through the same vegetation phases as the grapes. The consequence, of course, is that the wines differ more from vintage to vintage than those made with pure-bred yeasts."
This is difficult to convey to a market that expects a product that tastes more or less the same every year. Nevertheless, the Loacker family is convinced of the concept behind their work. Hayo Loacker: "As little as one year is like another climatically, the wines are as different as they are, or even have to be, if you work naturally. That is often forgotten. But that's what makes wine so interesting," and this is more true of Loacker wines than anywhere else. And if - as is the case here - the level is right, that is not only not a problem, but precisely what makes the subject of wine so appealing.
The prices of the Eisacktaler wines range between 10 and 15 euros. Tasting and sale at Schwarhof in Sankt Justina near Bolzano.
St. Justina 3, 39100 Bolzano
Tel. +39 0471 365125
Fax +39 0471 365313
The Loacker wines in the Wein-Plus Guide
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| Lentsch family (Photo: Brunner) |
The prices of the Hemberghof wines range from 13 to 16 euros. Tasting opportunity and sale in Branzoll. The Hemberghof can be visited by appointment. The latter should not be missed, as the beautifully situated estate with its steep, terraced vineyards is a real aesthetic delight. In addition, at the foot of the Hembergshof is one of the most congenial gastronomic addresses in the Valle Isarco (see below under Restaurant Recommendations).
Reichstaße 71, 39051 Branzoll
Tel. +39 0471 596017
Fax: +39 0471 596542
mobile:+39 348 5803072
info@klauslentsch.eu
www.klauslentsch.eu
The wines of Weinhof Hemberg in the Wein-Plus Guide
Two Eisacktaler producers, but no Sylvaner, no Kerner, no Veltliner and no Müller-Thurgau. Instead: Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Noir. Varieties that can also be found in other cultivation zones in South Tyrol. The special conditions - the northern alpine climate of the Valle Isarco mixes with Mediterranean influences from the south - give the wines of the local wineries their very special character. So just before leaving the Valle Isarco, you should take the road to Fiè allo Sciliar and drive up to Markus Prackwieser from Gumphof and Otmar Mai from Bessererhof. Since they are in the immediate vicinity, you can visit both in one trip - if you have enough time. You need it, because both produce a number of excellent wines, and both are extremely likeable winemakers who are a pleasure to spend time with.
Markus Prackwieser is one of those winemakers who, in a pleasantly calm way, ignite an enthusiasm that is impossible to resist. He produces the white varieties Sauvignon, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer as well as the red Pinot Noir, Vernatsch and some Lagrein. Markus Prackwieser wins the most awards with the Sauvignon - and rightly so. It is always a multi-faceted, multi-layered wine, and in good years it develops a complexity that is simply overwhelming. But you can also feel Marcus Prackwieser's signature in all the other Gumphof wines: The Pinot Blanc is creamy and elegant, the Gewürztraminer tart and aromatic, the Pinot Noir delicately spicy and the Vernatsch simply irresistibly charming. One must bear in mind that most of the vineyards were only planted at the beginning of the millennium and are therefore still relatively young, so that with increasing age there will still be a considerable increase in quality.
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| Markus Prackwieser (Source: Brunner) |
The fact that the wines are already so good is largely due to the joy and passion as well as the expertise and conscientiousness with which Markus Prackwieser pursues his profession. This begins in the vineyard, of course. This is where Markus Prackwieser's sure instinct for which variety produces the best results on which soil and in which location becomes apparent. And it continues in the cellar, where he knows exactly which wine has to mature in which barrel and for how long, so that the characteristics of the respective varieties can develop optimally. In a nutshell: A visit to the Gumphof is simply an unbelievable pleasure, on the one hand because the wines leave nothing to be desired, but on the other hand also because of the certainty that every year there will not only be consistent, but always better qualities.
The prices of the wines range from 6 to 16 euros. Tasting and sale by appointment.
Prösler Ried 8, 39050 Völs am Schlern
Tel./ Fax: +39 0471 601190
info@gumphof.it
www.gumphof.it
The wines of the Gumphof in the Wein-Plus Guide
Otmar Mair and his wife Rosmarie cultivate, apart from Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and some Vernatsch, completely different varieties than their neighbour Markus Prackwieser. Here they have Chardonnay, the aromatic white wine speciality Moscato in a dry variety and the red wine Zweigelt. Especially with their white wines, the Mairs offer something truly exceptional. The Chardonnay is vinified as a Riserva and is only sold after two years of ageing (18 months of which in 500-litre wooden barrels): a lasting, intense wine with fine fruit nuances; rather cool and delicate, yet immensely concentrated. The 2007 vintage was one of the best white wines in South Tyrol in the 2010 Wein Plus tastings and is listed as a "Grande Vino" in the "Slow Wine" guide. And yet it costs less than 10 euros at the winery! For me, the dry Muskateller is one of the best of its kind every year; in terms of price-quality ratio, it cannot be beaten anyway.
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| Otmar and Rosmarie Mair (Source: Mair) |
Otmar and Rosmarie Mair make really special wines. But when you visit them and talk to them, you get the impression that this is simply a matter of course for them. They are happy about the various awards, they appreciate them, but they don't make a fuss about it. They make these wines because they once decided to do so, and what they do, they do really well.
Prices range from 5 to 11 euros. Tasting and sale by appointment.
Prösler Ried 10, 39050 Völs am Schlern
Tel./Fax: +39 0471 601011
Mobile: 338 3230550
info@bessererhof.it
www.bessererhof.it
The wines of the Bessererhof in the Wine-Plus Guide
K. Martini & Sohn (Müller-Thurgau, Kerner)
Egger-Ramer (Müller-Thurgau)
Bolzano Winery (Müller-Thurgau, Sylvaner)
Malojer - Gummerhof (Sylvaner)
Hans Rottensteiner (Sylvaner)
Many top-class wines from the Eisack Valley, the rest of South Tyrol and Italy, stylish rooms, good food, an ever-present, attentive service. These are the qualities of the Hotel Gnollhof near Gufidaun. You are already a little outside the wine-growing area here, but in no less impressive an ambience. At an altitude of around 1,000 metres, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the South Tyrolean mountains (Plose and Geislerspitzen) from most of the rooms and from the dining room. Numerous hiking trails start directly at the house, and the cultural centres of the Eisack Valley - Klausen and Brixen - are in the immediate vicinity. The prices are absolutely civil. A so-called three-quarter board (breakfast, pasta dish and salad at lunchtime and a four-course evening meal) costs between €56 and €88 per person, depending on the room and season.
Hotel-Restaurant Gnollhof
Gufidaun 81, 39043 Klausen
Tel. +39 0472 847 323
Fax: +39 0472 842 366
info@gnollhof.it
www.gnollhof.it
Traditional cuisine on an upmarket level. And as good as you eat, you also drink here. In 2010 the Turmwirt received the South Tyrolean Wine Culture Prize. You sit wonderfully either in the historic ambience of the well-kept parlours or in the quiet garden with a beautiful view of the valley. The service is competent, cordial and pleasantly uncomplicated. Next door you can spend the night in the Hotel Garni Turm.
Opening hours: 10:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 20:30
Days off: Thursday, Friday until 17:30
Restaurant Turmwirt
Family Ferdinand Gasser
Gufidaun 50, 39043 Klausen
info@turmwirt-gufidaun.com
www.turmwirt-gufidaun.com
A visit to the Ansitz zum Steinbock in Villanders is a must if you are in the Eisack Valley for food and drink. Here you will find classic Eisacktal cuisine skilfully refined and interpreted in the best modern way. All this in a unique historical ambience that, like the cuisine, combines tradition and luxurious modernity at the same time. The service is competent and always present, and the wine list leaves nothing to be desired. The price level is more than reasonable. Overnight accommodation is available in stylishly furnished rooms or in the noble suite. Prices: 4-course gourmet half-board from € 75.00 per person.
Hotel and Restaurant Ansitz zum Steinbock
Franz-von-Defreggergasse 14, 39040 Villanders
Tel. +39 0472 843 111
Fax +39 0472 843 468
info@zumsteinbock.com
www.zumsteinbock.com
Since my research into the Eisack Valley, I no longer cycle the route between Klausen and Bozen and vice versa on the motorway, but on the state road. This takes a little longer, but gives me the opportunity to stop at the Bios bike station in Atzwang just opposite the Hemberg wine farm.
In a stylishly renovated former railway building, the two organic farms Partschillerhof and Wagglerhof located in the immediate vicinity offer their products. Everything else (pasta, coffee, wine, etc.) also comes from controlled organic production. The prices are extremely low for organic products. For example, you can get an organic roast pork for less than 10 euros here - the direct sale of the farm's own products and the direct purchase of the other products make it possible.
Closed in winter (until the beginning of March); closing day Monday.
Bike station Bios
Atzwang 39
39040 Atzwang
Tel: 348-7446070
pius@partschillerhof.it
www.partschillerhof.it
The Briol is unique all around. Both the history of its origins and its location as well as the food and the ambience. Built in 1928 in its current Bauhaus style, everything from the crockery to the furnishings to the colour scheme is coordinated. The cuisine combines the tried and tested with the modern, while always remaining strictly connected to South Tyrolean tradition. The magnificent location at 1,310 metres above sea level with a view of the Val Gardena and its Dolomites are worth a stay alone. And: there are no cars here (apart from the hotel's own)! You can only reach the Briol on foot or you can be picked up. Prices for half board (including salad buffet at lunchtime): 78 to 86 euros (surcharges for short weekend stays). The Briol is open from mid-May to mid-October.
Briol Johanna & Urban
von Klebelsberg 39040 Barbian-Dreikirchen
Tel./Fax: 0039 0471 650125
info@briol.it
www.briol.it
Treff.Wein - Incontro con il vino
Every year on the last Friday in July, all the producers from the Valle Isarco present their current wines under the arbours in the old town of Bressanone. From 7 p.m. to 11 p.m., you can get to know and enjoy the whole spectrum of Valle Isarco wines in a pleasant atmosphere. An opportunity not to be missed. This year the event will take place on Friday 29 July .
Information:
Tourismusverein Brixen
Regensburger Allee 9
39042 Brixen
Tel. +39 0472 836401
Fax +39 0472 836067
info@brixen.orgwww.brixen.org
Tourist Office Bressanone
Regensburger Allee 9
39042 Bressanone
Tel. +39 0472 836401
Fax +39 0472 836067
info@brixen.orgwww.brixen.org
Tourist Office Klausen, Barbian, Feldthurns, Villanders
Marktplatz 1
39043 Klausen
Tel. +39 0472 847 424
Fax +39 0472 847 244
info@klausen.itinfo@barbian.itwww.klausen.it
Free Winegrowers South Tyrol
Association of currently 82 self-marketing South Tyrolean wineries. An absolute must for every South Tyrolean wine lover: the Vinea Tirolensis, at which almost all member wineries present their current wines. This year's event will take place on 22 August at Autocity Barchetti in Bolzano.
Tel. +39 0471 238002
Fax: +39 0471 238 242
info@fws.itwww.fws.it
Roter Hahn
Arranges accommodation on farms in South Tyrol. Among them are also many farm wine producers. The quality criteria are very strict and are checked annually.
Tel. 0039 0471 999325
Fax. 0039 0471 981171
info@roterhahn.itwww.roterhahn.it