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The famous leg and shoulder ham Jamón Ibérico from the "black pigs" - the purebred Iberian pig(Cerdos ibéricos puros) and its crossbreeds with the Duroc Jersey pig (with 75% Ibérico content) - has an incomparable fullness of flavour. Recognised and protected as a trademark throughout Europe since 1996 under the title "Dehesa de Extremadura"(www.dehesa-extremadura.com), the Jamón Ibérico offers a unique culinary experience with its spicy-sweet taste accompanied by wonderful aromas and its tender texture after a demanding production process that is always completely controlled

The black pigs of Extremadura - well-being in the mud

Extensive outdoor husbandry is not the only requirement for the animals sometimes referred to as "pata negra" (black-footed). In the last five months before slaughter, they may even be fed only on acorns, herbs and grasses, which they find from October to February on the barren soils between the scattered oaks of the dehesas (cultivated forests of cork and holm oaks). This open-air fattening, which is so beneficial to the aromas and the fat grain - a feast that lasts for weeks for the pigs - yields up to 60 kg additional slaughter weight.

A cooling mud bath for a black pig

The respective quality rank in the Denominación de Origen Dehesa de Extremadura can be recognised by the different coloured labels and the numbered seals: Even in the category of the lowest quality level "Campo" (recognisable by yellow seals), the pigs must be kept outdoors and may only be fed with a dry feed mixture approved by the control council and the herbs and acorns of the Dehesa. A green label on the Jamón Recebo indicates that the animals have gained at least 30% of their input weight from the food in the dehesas. At the highest quality level, Jamón Ibérico de Bellota (red label), the animal is sent to the dehesas weighing 80-105 kg, where it must have increased its entry weight by about 60% by the time it is slaughtered by eating acorns, herbs and grasses. While the domestic pigs (Capa Blanca) weigh 100-120 kg at slaughter, the pigs for the Ibérico bring it up to 140-160 kg due to the many happy days among the oaks.

Raising the black pigs - future ham suppliers

The production process of these hams in all quality levels can be followed in detail, for example, during a guided tour of the traditional ham factory "El Arroyano" (in Cáceres, www.elarroyano.com). First, the V-shaped hams from fresh slaughter are salted (cured): in a room with 80-90% humidity, they are covered with sea salt and left at 3-5 °C for several days, depending on their weight. After meticulous cleaning and desalting, they are then stored at the same temperature and humidity for one to two months so that the absorbed salt can be evenly distributed throughout the ham.

Offspring of the famous ham suppliers of Extremadura

The typical smell of the Ibérico can be perceived for the first time when it dries and continues to mature for a further two months at 12-15°C. The final post-ripening in the cellar - which is also called a bodega for ham storage and is not only used for wines to mature - takes place at 23-25°C. After only six months of maturing, the simplest quality grade can be sold. The "Serrano" quality grade (hind legs from white pigs) matures for another six months - and for the incomparable aroma of the highest grade - the Jamón Ibérico de Bellota - three to four years of maturing are finally necessary. One of these hams, weighing an average of 7.5 kg, costs between 300 and 500 euros from the producer, depending on the quality level. Even after a cautious calculation that includes taxes, intermediate trade and transport costs, it quickly becomes clear that the question of exports to Germany, for example, is unlikely to arise for very many producers: Who would pay between 15 and 20 euros for 100 grams of one of Spain's finest regional products?


Wine & sparkling wine recommendations for ham

The combination of ham and Cava is classic. Iberico is also popular with Fino or Manzanilla. We have selected some German sparkling wines and sherries from our wine guide.

Sparkling

Winery Fuchs, 2006 Sonnenuhr, Riesling brut nature, 9.00 €

Winery Dr. Heinz Wagner, Riesling brut, 13.00 €

Winery Winterling, 2006 Chardonnay brut, 9.90 €

Fino & Manzanilla

Sandemann, Rare Fino Sherry

Emilio Lustau, Puerto Fino, dry

Bodegas Hidalgo, Manzanilla, La Gitana

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