It is probably the most interesting, exciting estate in Bordeaux ever, not only because of its historical background - also in terms of the wine made at this château today. It belongs to Bernard Magrez, "the man with 40 châteaux", as "Paris Match" once wrote. Whether there are 40 wine estates (all over the world), I don't know. In the Bordelais, at least, there are some with, even those with proud names: La Tour Carnet, Fombrauge, Clos Haut-Peyraguey, and of course Pape Clément, the showpiece among his estates.
This multimillionaire Magrez alone, with a dishwashing career and irresistible charm, would be worth a story. I was lucky enough to meet him as a dining companion at a dinner in Bordeaux. We talked about art and culture, Bordeaux and life. Then he recommended a multi-volume book (long out of print) that could teach me everything about vines and wine in a well-founded and correct way, a catechism of wine, so to speak. He also gave me the address of the antiquarian bookshop where I could buy it. (A hint with the bridle post!). The next day we were standing in the antiquarian bookshop!
The winery itself, the "oldest continuously farmed vineyard in the entire Bordeaux region," is one of the finest in the Bordelais. It used to be located at the outskirts of the city, today it is - according to the impression during an inspection - actually already in the middle of it, in the city, an oasis, surrounded by houses, high-rise buildings, urban life (similar to the Haut-Brion estates). One of the very great wines of the Bordelais is made here.
But what fascinates me even more than the location of the wine, than the owner, even than the wine itself, is the history of the vineyard
Even than the wine itself, is the history of the château. Pope Clement V - yes, the one from Avignon - inherited the estate as Bertrand de Got, child of an old winemaking family. He himself never made wine here, for he became a priest, then a bishop, a curia cardinal, and finally pope. Clements V. He donated the estate to the Bordeaux diocese, which made it a model estate and gave it the name of the donor: Châteaux Pape Clément.
The Pope, who ruled not in Rome but in Avignon, was a close friend of the French King Philip IV the Handsome. He was elected head of the Catholic Church only after an 11-month conclave and moved his residence to Avignon in 1303, where seven popes ruled from then on. Shortly after the papal seat returned to Rome, two popes were even elected at the same time, leading to the "Occidental Schism" and lasting almost 40 years. Also during this time, a pope resided in Avignon at times.
Enough of history - in detail it would be incredibly exciting - especially during the powerful pontificate of Cléments V. So back to the wine, which still bears his name and (wording: Magrez) "is an exceptional wine". As all Magrez wines are, others would rather call them garage wines. Only the parent estate, Pape Clément, is not a garage wine, but rather an exceptional wine, one of the finest, most nuanced wines, in which elegance and power are combined in the most marvelous way. I kept this 97 - actually I drank all 97s long ago - for a tasting (vertical or horizontal), but now I poured it. It still has a spicy bouquet with an incredible number of slowly developing aromas: from plums, to tobacco, to cherries. All very subtle though - some would say filigree, too filigree. For me, though, it's the backdrop to a quiet, pleasant, incisive, sensual wine experience. Too bad this 97 is now gone!